All Things Dog Blog

Monday, December 27, 2010

ASK THE DOG TRAINER, with Terry Lynn Cuyler: Selecting a Train-it-Yourself Assistance Dog

by Terry Lynn Cuyler, APDT, CPDT-KA

Dear Terry:

I was on a waiting list for 5 years, and with so many problems I have to train my own assistance dog. I need a mobilty dog for the biggest part because I have a depth perception problem because of medications , and with lupus, fibromyalgia, hypoglycemia, seizures, and Rheumatoid Arthritis, there is so much to train for.

I haven't started yet. I probably won't get a dog until I find the right one. Hubby is gonna have to help me train, because I don't have much energy. There are many shelter dogs, especially large breeds here in Northern Europe. What do I look for? A puppy is best, I know, but I have seen dogs from 6 weeks to 14 years at the shelters. I have looked into Antesion dogs, and different mountian dogs (Bernese, Swiss, Danish), and mixed breeds too. For me, it's the one that touches my heart.

What is one of the first things I should look for? Temperament, or willingness to serve or getting a 6 week old and hope for the best?

Thanks, Niki

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Dear Niki,
You are so right that the best one is the one that clicks with you. I look for temperament and that includes a willingness to serve, or you may be referring to a keep-working ethic, but there has to be a connection between you and the dog.

You can help build that bond by using positive reinforcement to teach skills you need. Even in traditional training organizations where they train the dogs first, and then bring in the potential human partners, they find certain dogs bond with certain people. You need a dog who is physically capable of doing the work you require, so it does need to be substantial in size, and then you need a list of the things you absolutely must have it do--prop you up if you start to fall, retrieve something you dropped, guide you to the edge of the curb, etc.

Karen Pryor, who helped solidify clicker training, as the most efficient way to train a dog for a specific behavior, offers a 4 DVD How-to set. to help owner trainers such as yourself. You can find additional assistance on skills at at the International Association for Assistance Dog Partners.

For you, I don’t recommend a puppy because puppies are difficult enough for anyone without the illnesses you mentioned. And you CAN absolutely train a mature dog, though they don’t soak it up quite as fast. You do want a self-confident dog, not a fearful one. As for some of the specific skills, equipment and trainers see the Delta Society's webpage.
I hope this has helped you in your search, and that you will keep us advised of your progress. Best of luck!

Terry, The Paws Prof

Our ASK THE DOG TRAINER Column can be reached at LetsAdoptaDogPark@gmail.com

For more information on Terry Lynn Cuyler and her training, you may find her at Paws Prof.

A personal appointment with a trainer will likely provide more specific information on your dog's issues and your questions.

The PawsProf's advice does not replace an actual consultation with a qualified trainer.

Related Reading:
Ask the Dog Trainer, with Terry Lynn Cuyler: Clicker Training Pros and Cons
Don't miss the Clicker Success Stories video coming 12/18/10

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Friday, November 26, 2010

ASK THE DOG TRAINER, with Terry Lynn Cuyler: Crate Training a Puppy Mill Dog

by Terry Lynn Cuyler, APDT, CPDT-KA

Dear PawsProf:

I believe Pip is a puppy mill dog because of the circling he does. He needs to be crate trained because he doesn't really understand what a walk is, nor what the grass is for, so he has lots of accidents in my condo. I am afraid that if I do crate train him he will become even more traumatized, if he was from a puppy mill. Any suggestions?

Thank you, Patti

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Dear Patti:

We dog trainer's love using crates to help house train puppies. Most pups won't eliminate where they sleep so keeping them in a crate until you take them to their elimination spot helps prevent 'accidents'. However, some pups who were raised in a crate didn't "get the memo" that you don't go in your crate because they were never given a chance to go anywhere else.

If Pip doesn't seem to know what to do outside, this may be the case with him. He may not be traumatized in a crate, he may feel safe there, but he also may not hesitate to go potty there. SO, I would suggest you strictly schedule his feedings and his opportunities to go potty.

You can limit where he goes in your condo by purchasing an exercise pen which is like a play pen for dogs without a floor. If you get a very light one, you could even take it outside and plop him in there instead of having him on a leash. He stays in his play pen inside or tethered to you with a leash. This way you limit his chances to go potty in the wrong place.

Most dogs can hold it for about an hour for each month they are old. So say Pip is 4 months old, you want to take him out after he wakes up in am and from naps, within half hour of being fed, and after he has been playing and has gotten excited. The trick to house-training is to have the dog in the RIGHT spot when he has a full bladder/bowel. So YOU have to control his access. He is not allowed freedom in your house unless he has just peed/pooped. And he can gradually be allowed freedom, one room at a time, over a period of months.

Tethering him to you in the house keeps him out of a crate, but means he is always supervised. If he begins to pee and he's right there tethered to you, you notice and say, "No, outside!" and rush him out there - or to his other intended potty area. You didn't say if he is comfortable with puppy pads, but if he is, that is an alternative to going outside.

When Pip does go in the correct spot you must let him know with high praise and a yummy treat - right there where he is outside! It's too late to give him a treat when he's back inside - he won't make the connection with going potty outside as the reason he got the treat. And just praise is not enough if you're still having problems, though it will be in a few weeks.

Right now you want it very clear to the dog: Go inside=get a mild scolding just AS he's going. Go outside=get praise and a treat! Be consistent. If you don't catch him eliminating in the house, hit yourself in the head with the rolled up newspaper and ask yourself why you weren't watching your dog...{grin} Vigilance for ten days will pay off with a dog who understands where to pee and poop. and a house free of accidents.

Terry, the Paws Prof